Marble is composed of calcium carbonate (CaCO3), which reacts chemically with acid. When lemon juice (citric acid) contacts marble, it dissolves a tiny amount of the surface, creating a dull spot called an 'etch mark'. This is a chemical reaction, not a stain - it cannot be cleaned off. It must be polished out with Lithofin MN Polish Cream. Prevention is best: seal with MN Stain-Stop and clean spills immediately.

Recommended: Lithofin MN Polish Cream, Lithofin MN Stain-Stop

Granite is harder (6-7 Mohs vs 3-4 for marble), denser, acid-resistant, and much more forgiving of spills and heat. Marble is softer, acid-sensitive, and requires more careful use - but many people choose it for its unmatched beauty. For kitchens: granite is the practical choice (less maintenance, more durable). Marble is the aesthetic choice (more beautiful but needs more care). Both need sealing with MN Stain-Stop for kitchen use.

Recommended: Lithofin MN Stain-Stop

No! Despite its hard, dark appearance, Belgian bluestone (Petit Granit) is actually a calcareous limestone, not granite. It is acid-sensitive - vinegar, lemon juice, and acid-based cleaners will etch and damage it. Care for bluestone like marble: use only pH-neutral cleaners (MN Wash & Clean), seal with MN Stain-Stop, and always dilute acid products heavily if they must be used. The name 'Petit Granit' is misleading - it is NOT granite.

Recommended: Lithofin MN Wash & Clean, Lithofin MN Stain-Stop

Yes, natural holes (pitting) are a characteristic feature of travertine, formed by gas bubbles during the stone's formation. Some travertine is filled with resin or cement during processing, but some is left unfilled for a rustic look. For cleaning: use a soft brush with MN Wash & Clean to clean inside the holes. Seal unfilled travertine with MN Stain-Stop to prevent dirt from penetrating deeply. The holes are not a defect - they are what makes travertine unique.

Recommended: Lithofin MN Wash & Clean, Lithofin MN Stain-Stop

Extremely important. Sandstone is one of the most porous natural stones - it absorbs water and stains very quickly. Unsealed sandstone outdoors will absorb water, leading to frost damage in winter and rapid biological growth. Unsealed sandstone indoors will stain easily from any liquid. Apply Lithofin MN Stain-Stop generously - two coats are recommended because sandstone is so absorbent. Re-seal outdoor sandstone every 2-3 years.

Recommended: Lithofin MN Stain-Stop

Slight surface flaking (delamination) is a natural characteristic of slate, not a defect. Slate is a metamorphic rock with a layered structure - some types are more prone to flaking than others. You can gently remove loose flakes and treat the surface with Lithofin MN Slate-Oil or MN Colour Intensifier to consolidate the surface layers. If flaking is severe or worsening, consult a stone specialist - it may indicate a moisture problem beneath the stone.

Recommended: Lithofin MN Slate-Oil, Lithofin MN Colour Intensifier

Unglazed (or 'full-body') porcelain tiles can be surprisingly absorbent despite appearing dense. The micro-pores in the surface can trap dirt, coffee, wine, and other staining agents. This is especially common with textured or structured surfaces. The solution: seal with Lithofin KF Protective Impregnator after installation. For existing stains: deep clean with KF Intensive Cleaner first, then seal. This is one of the most common tile care issues.

Recommended: Lithofin KF Protective Impregnator, Lithofin KF Intensive Cleaner

Treat terrazzo like marble. Traditional terrazzo contains marble chips in a cement binder - making it calcareous and acid-sensitive. Never use acid cleaners on terrazzo. Use MN Wash & Clean for daily care, MN Power-Clean for deep cleaning, and MN Stain-Stop for protection. If the polish is dull, use MN Polish Liquid or MN Polish Cream. Modern resin-based terrazzo may be less acid-sensitive, but the same care products work well.

Recommended: Lithofin MN Wash & Clean, Lithofin MN Power-Clean, Lithofin MN Stain-Stop

Most quartz composite countertops come pre-sealed from the factory and do not need additional sealing. They are engineered to be non-porous with resin binding. However, over years of use, the surface can become slightly less resistant. Use pH-neutral cleaners only (Lithofin EASY-CARE or MN Easy-Clean). Avoid strong acids, alkalis, and bleach. If the surface loses water repellency after years, a light application of Lithofin Stainstop PLUS can help.

Recommended: Lithofin EASY-CARE, Lithofin MN Easy-Clean, Lithofin Stainstop PLUS

Both are valid - it depends on the look you want. Traditional wax system (TC Classic Primer + TC Classic Wax): creates a warm, satin patina that deepens over time. Authentic Italian look. Needs more maintenance (Cotto Easy-Clean, annual wax top-up). Modern impregnation (TC Impregnator): invisible protection, less maintenance, more practical. Better for kitchens and wet areas. Important: do NOT mix systems. If switching from wax to impregnation, strip all wax first with WAX-OFF.

Recommended: Lithofin TC Classic Primer, Lithofin TC Classic Wax, Lithofin TC Impregnator, Lithofin WAX-OFF

Basalt is one of the easiest stones to care for. It is extremely hard (6-7 Mohs), very dense, and acid-resistant. You can safely use both acidic and alkaline cleaners. Daily care: MN Wash & Clean. Deep cleaning: MN Power-Clean or even CEMENT-AWAY for stubborn deposits. Sealing: MN Basic Protection is sufficient (basalt is so dense it needs minimal sealing). The main consideration: basalt's dark colour can show white efflorescence more visibly if moisture is present.

Recommended: Lithofin MN Wash & Clean, Lithofin MN Basic Protection

Lithofin KF Clinker Oil is specifically designed to enhance clinker colour. It penetrates the surface to reveal the warm natural tones and brick-like character. Apply thinly with a cloth or sponge. Remove excess after 10-15 minutes. Buff when dry. For a natural, unenhanced look: use KF Protective Impregnator instead (invisible protection without colour change). Daily care: KF Conditioning Cleaner.

Recommended: Lithofin KF Clinker Oil, Lithofin KF Protective Impregnator, Lithofin KF Conditioning Cleaner

Glass mosaic tiles themselves are non-porous and very easy to clean - the challenge is the large amount of grout between the small tiles. Daily care: KF Conditioning Cleaner. Limescale: KF Ceramic-Clean diluted 1:5 (glass is acid-resistant). Mould in grout: KF Mildew-Away on grout lines. Protection: KF Grout Protector on the grout lines (the glass doesn't need protection). Avoid abrasive pads that can scratch the glass surface. Always test new products in a small area first.

Recommended: Lithofin KF Conditioning Cleaner, Lithofin KF Ceramic-Clean, Lithofin KF Grout Protector

New pavers: wait 28 days for concrete to cure. Clean with MN Power-Clean 1:5. Dry completely. Seal with MN Stain-Stop (two coats for very porous pavers). For driveways: MN Stain-Stop provides oil resistance, essential for vehicle areas. For colour enhancement: MN Concrete Coating instead. Annual maintenance: sweep, apply ALGEX for biological growth (spring), deep clean with MN Outdoor Cleaner. Re-seal every 2-3 years. Re-sand joints after pressure washing.

Recommended: Lithofin MN Stain-Stop, Lithofin MN Concrete Coating, Lithofin ALGEX, Lithofin MN Outdoor Cleaner

To maintain your composite stone kitchen worktop, regularly clean it with a pH-neutral cleaner like Lithofin MN Easy-Clean. Avoid harsh chemicals that can damage the surface. For deeper stains, use Lithofin MN Stain-Stop to protect and enhance the appearance.

Recommended: Lithofin MN Easy-Clean, Lithofin MN Stain-Stop

For Belgian blue bluestone, use Lithofin WAX to enhance its natural beauty and provide a protective layer. Regularly clean with a mild detergent and avoid acidic cleaners that can etch the stone. Reseal every few years to keep it looking its best.

Recommended: Lithofin WAX

To restore terrazzo, start by cleaning with Lithofin TERAZZOCLEAN to remove dirt and grime. For deeper scratches or dullness, consider polishing with a terrazzo-specific polishing powder. Finally, apply a sealer to protect the surface and enhance its shine.

Recommended: Lithofin TERAZZOCLEAN

Quartz composite is engineered from crushed quartz and resin, making it less porous and more resistant to stains than natural quartz. Natural quartz, while beautiful, can be more susceptible to staining and requires regular sealing. Both can benefit from products like Lithofin MN Stain-Stop for added protection.

Recommended: Lithofin MN Stain-Stop

For outdoor clinker tiles, regular sweeping and washing with water is essential. Use Lithofin KF Stain-Stop to protect against stains and enhance durability. Avoid using acidic cleaners that can damage the surface.

Recommended: Lithofin KF Stain-Stop

Basalt paving requires regular cleaning with a mild detergent and water to prevent dirt accumulation. For added protection, apply Lithofin MN Stain-Stop to resist stains and enhance the stone's natural color. Resealing every few years is recommended for optimal care.

Recommended: Lithofin MN Stain-Stop

To maintain glass mosaic tiles in your pool, clean them regularly with a soft cloth and a pH-neutral cleaner like Lithofin KF Stain-Stop. This will help prevent algae buildup and staining. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can scratch the glass surface.

Recommended: Lithofin KF Stain-Stop

Cotto is a type of terracotta that is fired at a higher temperature, making it denser and more durable. Terracotta is more porous and can be more susceptible to staining. For both, use Lithofin WAX to enhance and protect the surface from stains and moisture.

Recommended: Lithofin WAX

Scratch an inconspicuous spot with a knife - quartzite won't scratch easily (hardness 7). Then drop a small amount of lemon juice on the surface. Real quartzite won't react; marble or dolomite fizzes within seconds. Many slabs sold as 'quartzite' are actually soft calcite stone.

Most quartzite has low porosity and doesn't strictly need sealing. However, lighter-coloured varieties (Taj Mahal, Sea Pearl) can have micro-fissures that absorb stains. A single coat of Lithofin MN Stain-Stop gives peace of mind without changing the look.

Yes - genuine quartzite is silica-based and acid-resistant. You can safely use Lithofin KF Cement Residue Remover or similar acidic products. This is actually the key difference from marble. If your stone reacts to acid, it's not quartzite.

Quartzite can develop a slightly matte feel from micro-abrasion by daily use. Unlike marble, you can't re-polish quartzite easily at home because it's extremely hard. Professional re-polishing is possible but rarely needed. Regular cleaning with Lithofin MN Wash & Clean keeps the surface looking fresh.

Quartzite handles acidic removal well. Use Lithofin MN Builders' Clean diluted 1:3, leave 5 minutes, scrub and rinse. For epoxy grout haze, use Lithofin Resin-EX. Always pre-wet the surface before applying any cleaner.

Onyx is extremely acid-sensitive - even slightly acidic tap water can etch it over time. Use only pH-neutral cleaners like Lithofin MN Wash & Clean. Wipe with a soft cloth, never scrub. For daily dusting, a damp microfibre cloth is enough.

Light etching on polished onyx shows as dull spots, especially visible with backlighting. Apply Lithofin MN Polish Cream with a soft cloth in circular motions. Deep etching requires professional re-polishing. Prevent further damage by sealing with Lithofin MN Stain-Stop.

Onyx works in bathrooms but demands careful maintenance. Seal it with Lithofin MN Stain-Stop before use. Avoid all acidic products (many bathroom cleaners are acidic). Clean limescale mechanically or with MN Wash & Clean - never with acidic descalers. Wipe up cosmetics and toothpaste immediately.

Yes. Onyx is prone to thermal cracking, especially thin slabs (< 2 cm). Never place hot pans directly on onyx. The translucent crystal structure conducts heat unevenly, creating stress fractures. Use trivets without exception.

Every 6-12 months for countertops, annually for wall cladding. Test by dropping water on the surface - if it darkens within a minute, it's time to reseal. Use Lithofin MN Stain-Stop. Apply thinly and buff off excess within 10 minutes.

Oiling is optional but popular. Mineral oil or Lithofin MN Slate-Oil darkens soapstone to a rich charcoal tone and evens out scratches. Without oil, soapstone develops a natural lighter patina over time. Both looks are valid - it's a personal choice, not a maintenance requirement.

Completely normal. Soapstone is one of the softest countertop stones (hardness 1.5). Scratches are inevitable with daily use. Most people embrace them as part of the patina. To make them less visible, rub with mineral oil or Lithofin MN Slate-Oil. The scratches won't disappear but blend into the darkened surface.

Yes - soapstone is one of the few countertop materials that handles direct heat without damage. It has been used for wood stoves and fireplace surrounds for centuries. No trivets needed, though heavy impacts can cause edge chipping.

Soapstone has very low porosity and rarely stains deeply. Surface stains usually wipe away with Lithofin MN Wash & Clean. Persistent marks can be sanded out with fine sandpaper (220 grit), then re-oiled. This is an advantage of soapstone - you can always sand and refinish.

No. Soapstone's near-zero porosity means sealers are unnecessary and won't penetrate properly. If you want the dark look, use oil (not a sealer). Soapstone is naturally resistant to stains, bacteria, and chemicals - it's used in laboratory counters for this reason.

Similar technology but different result. Sintered stone (Dekton, Neolith, Lapitec) is pressed and fired at even higher temperatures than porcelain tiles. It has virtually zero porosity and comes in large-format slabs (up to 320×160 cm). Care is similar to porcelain but edge chipping is the main concern.

Those grey marks from pans or utensils are metal deposits on the surface, not scratches. Apply Lithofin KF Intensive Cleaner with a non-scratch pad and rub firmly. The marks come off easily because sintered stone is harder than the metal.

Sintered stone is extremely hard (hardness 8) but brittle at edges and corners. Point impacts - like dropping a heavy jar on an edge - can cause chipping. Unlike natural stone, chips cannot be sanded smooth and are difficult to repair invisibly. Handle edges with care during installation and use.

No. Sintered stone has zero porosity and is completely stain-proof, acid-proof, and heat-proof. No sealer will bond to the surface. Simply clean with Lithofin KF Intensive Cleaner or any pH-neutral cleaner. It's the most maintenance-free countertop material available.

Dark polished finishes show fingerprints noticeably. Use Lithofin EasyClean spray for quick daily cleaning - spray and wipe with a microfibre cloth. For a streak-free finish, buff dry immediately after wiping. A matt or textured finish hides fingerprints much better than polished.

That's efflorescence - mineral salts migrating to the surface as the tile bed dries. It's normal in the first weeks to months. Remove with Lithofin MN Builders' Clean diluted 1:5. Don't use strong acids - cement tiles are acid-sensitive and will etch. If efflorescence returns, wait until the floor has fully dried before sealing.

Always. Cement tiles are extremely porous and will absorb grout pigment permanently if unsealed. Apply Lithofin MN Stain-Stop before grouting, let cure 24 hours, then grout. This is the single most important step in cement tile installation.

Never. Cement tiles are calcium-based and dissolve in acid - even weak acids like vinegar, lemon juice, or citric acid cleaners. This causes irreversible etching and dulling of the pattern. Use only pH-neutral products like Lithofin MN Wash & Clean.

If the pattern has faded from abrasive cleaning, Lithofin MN Colour Intensifier can revive the depth and saturation. Clean thoroughly first with MN Wash & Clean, let dry completely, then apply the intensifier. Seal afterwards with MN Stain-Stop. For heavily worn tiles, professional re-surfacing may be needed.

High-traffic areas (kitchen, hallway): every 1-2 years. Bathrooms: annually due to constant moisture. Low-traffic areas: every 3-5 years. Test by dropping water on the surface - if it soaks in within 30 seconds instead of beading, it's time to reseal with Lithofin MN Stain-Stop.

Not recommended. Steam penetrates the topcoat and can cause delamination or clouding of the finish. Microcement relies on its polyurethane or epoxy topcoat for protection - steam attacks this layer. Clean with a damp mop and Lithofin MN Wash & Clean instead.

The topcoat on microcement is usually acid-resistant, but test first in an inconspicuous spot. Use Lithofin KF Cement Residue Remover diluted 1:5, apply briefly (2-3 minutes), and rinse thoroughly. For daily prevention, squeegee the walls after each shower.

This means the topcoat has worn through, exposing the raw microcement beneath. You cannot spot-repair microcement invisibly - the entire surface needs recoating. Contact your installer for topcoat renewal. Prevent future wear by placing mats at entries and using furniture pads.

No. Microcement is a thin (2-3 mm) coating applied over existing surfaces. Polished concrete is a structural slab ground and polished. Care differs: microcement depends on its topcoat (don't use abrasives), while polished concrete can be reground. Microcement is more delicate but more versatile in application.

Clean daily with Lithofin MN Wash & Clean (pH neutral). Avoid abrasive pads, ammonia, or bleach. Place mats at high-traffic entries. For scratched topcoats, a maintenance wax from your microcement supplier can fill minor surface damage. Full topcoat renewal is needed every 5-10 years depending on traffic.

They look similar and both contain calcium, but dolomite has magnesium carbonate which makes it slightly harder and more acid-resistant than marble. However, 'slightly' is the key word - dolomite still etches from acidic cleaners, just more slowly. Treat it like marble for cleaning purposes: pH-neutral products only.

Mislabelling is rampant. Many stones sold as 'quartzite' are actually dolomite or marble. The acid test settles it: drop lemon juice on the surface. Dolomite fizzes slowly, marble fizzes fast, quartzite doesn't react at all. This matters because dolomite needs sealing and acid-free care.

Yes. Dolomite has medium porosity and stains without protection. Apply Lithofin MN Stain-Stop before first use and reseal every 1-2 years. Water test: if a drop soaks in within a minute, resealing is overdue.

MN Power-Clean is alkaline (pH 10.5) and safe for dolomite - it won't etch the surface. It's ideal for deep cleaning. Avoid acidic cleaners like KF Cement Residue Remover, which will etch dolomite just like marble.

Light etching: polish out with Lithofin MN Polish Cream using a soft cloth in circular motions. Deep etching on polished dolomite requires professional diamond re-polishing. For honed finishes, very fine sandpaper (800+ grit) followed by MN Polish Cream can help. Always reseal after any polishing work.

Apply Lithofin ALGEX undiluted on dry stone, leave overnight, then pressure-wash the next day. Porphyry's very low porosity means the treatment stays on the surface where algae grows. Repeat annually in autumn for best results. The product also has a preventive effect for several months.

Efflorescence - soluble salts from the mortar bed migrating to the surface. Normal in the first season. Remove with Lithofin MN Builders' Clean diluted 1:3. Porphyry is acid-resistant so you can safely use this acidic cleaner. Rinse thoroughly with plenty of water.

Rarely. Porphyry has very low porosity and is naturally resistant to stains and water. For high-end installations where you want zero maintenance, one coat of Lithofin MN Stain-Stop provides extra insurance. But most porphyry driveways and patios do fine without any sealer.

Porphyry handles acid well. Use Lithofin CEMENT-AWAY or MN Builders' Clean undiluted, leave 5-10 minutes, scrub with a stiff brush, and rinse. Pre-wet the stone before application to prevent the acid from being absorbed into the joints.

Yes, porphyry is one of the hardest paving stones (hardness 7) and handles pressure washing up to 150 bar without damage. Keep the nozzle at 15-20 cm distance and use a fan tip, not a point jet. For best results, pre-treat with Lithofin ALGEX before pressure washing.

Very similar. Gneiss is a metamorphic cousin of granite with the same hardness and chemical resistance. The main difference: gneiss has banded layers with mica flakes that can loosen on honed or natural-cleft surfaces. Avoid abrasive scrubbing along the grain. Otherwise, treat it exactly like granite.

Not a defect - it's inherent to gneiss. Mica flakes are soft and can lift from the matrix over time, especially on honed or leathered finishes. You can stabilise the surface with Lithofin MN Stain-Stop, which binds loose particles. Polished gneiss has this problem far less.

Gneiss is acid-resistant (silica-based), so you can safely use Lithofin KF Cement Residue Remover diluted 1:5 for limescale. Spray on, wait 5 minutes, wipe off. This is easier than on marble or limestone where you'd need to avoid acids entirely.

Gneiss has low porosity and most varieties don't need sealing. Lighter banded sections can be slightly more porous than dark sections. If in doubt, do a water test: drop water on light and dark bands separately. Seal only if the light bands absorb water within a minute. Use Lithofin MN Stain-Stop.

Excellent choice. Gneiss is hard, frost-resistant, and naturally slip-resistant (especially flame-textured or natural-cleft finishes). Clean annually with Lithofin MN Outdoor Cleaner to prevent algae. The banded pattern also hides dirt well. One of the best natural stones for outdoor applications.

Zellige glaze is intentionally imperfect - it has fine crazing (hairline cracks) that are part of the artisan character. These micro-cracks absorb liquids and stain. Seal with Lithofin MN Stain-Stop before grouting and again after. Accept that some patina development is part of zellige's charm.

Use only soft cloths and pH-neutral cleaners like Lithofin MN Wash & Clean. Never use abrasive pads or cream cleansers - zellige glaze is relatively soft and scratches easily. Avoid acidic and strongly alkaline cleaners that can attack the glaze.

Zellige typically has wider joints (3-5 mm) than standard tiles, making grout more visible and harder to keep clean. Seal the grout with Lithofin MN Stain-Stop after installation. For routine cleaning, use Lithofin MN Wash & Clean. Re-seal grout annually in kitchens and bathrooms.

Yes, but with precautions. Seal tiles and grout thoroughly before first use. Squeegee walls after each shower to prevent limescale. Clean weekly with Lithofin MN Wash & Clean. Avoid all acidic bathroom cleaners. Expect some colour variation over time - that's part of the handmade character.

Carefully. The glaze crazing means acid can penetrate and stain. Use Lithofin KF Cement Residue Remover diluted 1:10 (very mild), apply for maximum 2 minutes, and rinse immediately. Test on a spare tile first. Better approach: prevent limescale by squeegeeing after each use and using Lithofin MN Wash & Clean regularly.